Restaurant Review: Chef's Table at The Savoy

My mate Greg, without meaning to, makes all other husbands look bad. It's not enough that he is a loving partner, devoted father, and pillar of the community. Oh no. He also has to go and make the most amazing reservations for wedding anniversaries.

My wife, Liz, and I were running slightly late for our meeting with Greg and his delightful wife Jamie. We hadn't seen them for... oooh... About a decade. Time flies when you're adulting. And we're on different sides of the Atlantic ocean. So when they announced they were visiting London, we leapt at the chance to see them again.

We bustled into the Savoy, walked up the wrong staircase, turned down the wrong corridor, and then eventually found our way to Gordon Ramsay's Savoy Grill. What a swell place for an anniversary dinner! I told you he was good at reservations.

I cast my eye around the restaurant, but couldn't see our friends. I motioned to the Maître d', "Excuse me, we're here with..."

"Of course sir, madam. Right this way!" And off he dashed through an unmarked door. We followed and found ourselves in the middle of the kitchen. For a moment I thought he'd taken us the wrong way. Or that he thought we were there to cook. For one gut-wrenching second I thought I hadn't paid a previous bill and was being sent for a bollocking from Ramsey himself. But, no.

The chefs all paused their work "Good evening sir, madam," one said. A sous (or possibly commis) hoped we had a wonderful evening. Even the plongeur looked up from the suds and smiled.

WHAT THE FUCK WAS GOING ON?!

"This way, please."

We were ushered through the kitchen into what I can only describe as the most luxurious padded cell I've ever been committed to. Our friends nestled in a cosy booth, staring out of the window into the kitchen.

It is a view like none other. Yes, I've been to restaurants with open kitchen, or where a chef has cooked in front of you. But this was something else. A cross between an aquarium and dinner-theatre. It is mesmerising watching a whole team of professionals work in unison to create exquisite dishes. I assume the glass was somewhat soundproof - we certainly didn't hear any raised voices.

And the food? We went à la carte rather than go for the full tasting menu. There was a full and inventive vegetarian menu - no dull risotto or beanburgers here! My gazpacho had an intensity of freshness that I doubt I could ever recreate. The gnocchi was robust and startling. The sides were standard English fare - potatoes, carrots, salad - hard to go wrong. All the dishes were presented beautifully. There was no "molecular gastronomy" or "served on a bird's nest made of clay" nonsense. Hearty food, well proportioned, and washed down with a bottle of Chateau Macquin St Georges St Emilion.

I was too busy scoffing mine down to take any snaps, but Greg's Wellington shows off the quality.

The selection of chocolates and jellies at the end nearly finished me off.

All the dishes served were fantastic. And watching them being created was a delightful experience. The private room meant no unruly diners disrupting our reverie. And the waiters weren't hovering, trying to upsell us. Simply a perfect dining experience.

Alas, our time was limited due to our friends' theatre tickets. We exited the booth, through the kitchen, with the staff wishing us well - as we told them how marvellous their food was. Swished into the cool air of London town, still slightly staggered by the evening.

And now, of course, I have to find a way to top that for our wedding anniversary! Curse you, Greg! What am I supposed to do? Ask Paul Hollywood to come skydiving with us?!

Cost

Obviously, I insisted on paying the bill. It was Greg and Jamie's anniversary, and we hadn't seen them in donkeys' years.

Naturally, Greg insisted on paying the bill. I'd just graduated from my MSc, Liz had a new job, and they hadn't seen us in far too long.

So we compromised. I paid their share, he paid our share. Equitable!

Four adults, two courses, sweets, mineral water, and a bottle of wine, came to a bit over £100 per head.

Certainly not the most expensive meal I've eaten in London - but a fair bit pricier than a Bella Italia. I'd say a very reasonable price for such a unique venue with outstanding food.

You can make a reservation at the Chef's Table - but only if you want to really impress someone!